Gather round, Garfields. I come bearing lasagna news.
Umarell, a New Jersey-style Italian restaurant, opened in Hyde Park earlier this year in the small building formerly occupied by Wok 'N Express.
I finally made my way to the counter-service spot last week and it was everything a girl who misses her hometown Italian spot could hope for. The portions are huge, the prices are not terrible, and the decor is so homey and fun. Oh, and they have the biggest piece of lasagna I’ve ever laid my eyes on.
The end piece lasagna is $24 and is what dreams are made of if you also prefer a crispy corner piece of any casserole or brownie pan. It’s crunchy in the right places, made with bolognese, and the layers are so soft they can barely stay in one place. And, the dish is served in a pool of arrabbiata tomato sauce that is a true highlight. It’ll give you something to write home about, that’s for sure. I highly recommend sharing this with a friend so you have room for other delights.
Take the calamari curly fries ($15). Thin pieces of fried calamari are mixed in with a mountain of curly fries that has horseradish mayo slathered on top. Eat a fry and a piece of calamari at the same time for best results.
Adding corn in unexpected places is one of the best things a restaurant can do. Ricotta dumplings ($18) are served in a bowl with just enough alfredo and corn sauce. The dumplings are small in size but dense enough for a real bite. Consider this a light dish before your lasagna arrives.
Umarell made me want to return as soon as possible by doing one thing: delivering food to tables. Every time a new dish passed by in the hands of a waiter, I turned into a cartoon character who just smelled a pie. My eyes got wide and I’d ask my fellow diners what they ordered. Based on this alone, I’ll be ordering the gigantic chicken parm sandwich, chicken francese pasta, and the tiramisu next time I visit.


